Mazatlan

We're now settled into the warmer more humid mainland and are really
enjoying it so far. The ferry ride turned out to be a good deal of
fun as we teamed up with an Aussie on a round the world motorbike trip
to raise awareness about prostate cancer
(http://www.riderightround.org/) and another motorbiker riding from
Calgary to Panama and back. The Aussie brought a big bag of balloons
and we all tried our hand honing our street busking skills. Who knew
it was so darn hard to blow up one of those things! Beers on board
were reasonably priced at $2 CDN which really kicked things off.
Unfortunately, Rill was pretty tired so she missed out on a spirited
late night card game. The ferry was only about 1/4 full so there was
lots of space to spread sleeping bags and mats for a nice long sleep.
In the morning we saw a large pod of dolphins playing in the boat's
wake; what amazing creatures they are (shocking that the Japanese are
slaughtering so many of them each year - we watched "The Cove"
tonight. Go rent it tomorrow). There were also a few whales about
and lots of rays and sea birds.

The last two days were spent exploring Mazatlan, a fantastic old city.
Well actually only part of it is fantastic and the other part, out by
the expensive Western hotels, was absolutely awful. We headed north
out of the old city in order to spend the day relaxing in the swimming
pools along the Zona Dorado (Golden Zone). As we made the 10 kms walk
from the beaches of the city centre we were, for the first time in
Mexico, being harassed to buy crappy shirts, get a temporary tattoo,
take a taxi, buy an ugly hat, or shirt, or whatever else it is that
tourists inexplicably buy when they leave home. Also, everyone was
talking to us in English in a super sleazy manner typical of tourist
traps worldwide. The pools were lovely but, wow, what a terrible
change from our experience so far in Mexico where we are treated with
such kindness and warmth rather than attacked as prey. As the section
of the Baja (Los Cabos) is meant to be exactly the same type of
tourist destination as the Zona Dorado I am so glad that we decided to
skip it entirely. Back in the city, with our much cheaper and better
food and surrounded by Mexicans going about their non tourist trade
focused lives, things are so much more relaxed, enjoyable, and most of
all, real. I feel sorry for those who come to Mexico and return home
forming an opinion of the country based so wrongly on the touristy
areas; those areas are so far removed from the Mexico I'm loving.

Our little hotel is just five blocks from the beach in the palm tree
picture and five blocks in the other direction from a bustling market.
If you need an entire cow or a sweet piñata this is the place to
go. This afternoon we headed to the south end of the old city to hike
up to what is purportedly the second highest elevation lighthouse in
the world, although a brief internet search did not seem to agree (see
pic of the lighthouse from ferry). From the top there is a
spectacular view in all directions.

Tomorrow we head to San Blas, a small beach town. It should be a nice
relaxing place to spend a few days. After that we'll likely visit
Chacala, Sayulita, and Puerto Vallarta over our final two weeks in
paradise.

Only a week to Christmas, I bet Jack is getting crazy excited!